What Fuel Can You Use In A Lantern Or Stove

What fuel can you use in a lantern or stove? And what do you do when you are caught out with no kerosene? There are many different types of fuel on the market, which has led to a lot of confusion. If you are heading out camping and want to learn about lanterns, this guide sets out what suits which appliance, and what should never go near a flame.

Oil lamps come in a wide range of sizes, shapes and styles. However, they all have certain safety concerns. Oil lamps need a specific fuel type to light up efficiently and safely. They typically burn half an ounce per hour, and they should be kept half full to ensure optimal burning. Some oils will burn faster than others. Below we look at the fuels used in oil lamps today, the fuels old lamps burned over the years, and then the dual fuel lanterns and stoves most campers actually carry.

History of oil lamps and fuel

The majority of homes used lamps that ran on whale oil, whale fat or camphene. By the Civil War, oil refineries and oil wells were plentiful in places like Pennsylvania and Northwest Ontario. The clean-burning kerosene became a popular solution for many things, including lighthouses and locomotives. It was also used in ships, streets, and more.

Kerosene was eventually replaced by electric lighting. Oil lamps are still used in emergencies, and in place of electric lights or candles. That is exactly why it matters to know what oil to use in yours.

The reason is simple physics. A wick pulls liquid fuel upward by capillary action, and the flame burns the vapour coming off the wick, not the liquid in the reservoir. A fuel that is too thick will crawl up the wick slowly and starve the flame. One that is too volatile can ignite far more fiercely than the lamp was built to handle. Old lamps were designed around the oils of their day, so a fuel that suits one lamp can clog or flare in another. Read the lamp maker's instructions before you pour anything in. For background on the lamps themselves, see the Wikipedia entry on oil lamps.

Plant-based and organic lamp fuels

It may seem logical to use lamp oil in your oil lamps, but you can also choose from a variety of other fuels that will produce different results. Some alternative fuels may not be suitable for vintage kerosene or paraffin lamps, so treat the list below as a starting point and not a licence to experiment.

Canola oil: An oil derived from crushed rapeseed. It can work as an organic lamp fuel. However, it can form resin due to the presence of unsaturated components, and that can cause the wick to become clogged. Resin build-up is the usual reason a lamp that burned well on day one sputters by the end of the trip.

Castor oil: An oil derived from Ricinus communis, a castor bean. Castor oil is a good organic lamp fuel. It is biodegradable and can be used as a renewable source of energy. It is used in Egypt, India and other countries as a fuel.

Fish oil: Oil derived from oily fish tissues. For centuries, fish oil has been used as a fuel for lamps. However, it is not very bright and can smoke after prolonged use.

Olive oil: A smokeless, odourless and renewable fuel, and an alternative to lamp oil or kerosene. Lampante oil is a low-quality virgin olive oil that is unfit for human consumption unless it has been refined. You can retrofit your olive oil lamp yourself if you don't like using wick-type lights. Olive oil suits thick wicks, as it doesn't burn until 550deg F. That high threshold is also why it can be harder to start than the lighter fuels.

Palm kernel oil: A low-viscosity, paraffinic oil derived from the kernels of Elaeis guineensis oil palms. It is becoming rarer due to a growing demand for renewable materials. Palm kernel oil has no odour, is non-toxic and non-flammable, and it is safe to use in homes with pets or small children.

Kerosene and lamp oil explained

Kerosene: A readily available, affordable and refined form of oil. It was discovered by Abraham Gesner, a medical doctor and geologist. Gesner produced a clear liquid in 1846 by distilling coal. When he used this fluid to light a traditional oil lamp, he found that it produced a bright yellow glow, brighter than the flames from previous oils. He named his new liquid "kerosene" after the Greek term for "wax-oil," "keroselaion." You can read more about Abraham Gesner and the fuel itself on Wikipedia's kerosene page.

Lamp oil: A flammable hydrocarbon oil, usually refined and purified so that it burns without odour or soot. Clear lamp oil is labelled as such to indicate its purity, and it is designed for indoor lamps. Coloured lamp oil is suitable but could discolour or stain your lamp. Scented lamp oils can become smoky while in use.

Lamp oil also evaporates slowly over time, so store it with a cap that fits properly to get the maximum shelf life. Keep it cool, upright and away from the stove or fire. If you carry spare fuel in your pack list, our piece on whether camp fuel goes bad covers storage in more detail.

How to safely fuel your oil lamp

Mineral oil, pure gasoline, rubbing alcohol or any other fuel not made for lamps should not be used to power an oil lamp. The vapours, aromatics and other substances released by these materials when they burn can be harmful to your health. Improper fuel use can cause respiratory illness, fire or explosion. Never use household cleaners or highly flammable substances such as acetone, propane or turpentine to fill the oil reservoir.

A few habits prevent most accidents. Let the lamp cool before refilling it. Fill outdoors or in a well-ventilated space, away from naked flames. Wipe up spills before you light up. Check that the wick is trimmed and seated properly, and never top up a lit lamp. If you are weighing how a flame behaves near fabric, our guide on whether it is safe to use a fire pit under a canopy is worth a read, because the same cautions apply to lanterns hanging in a tent or shelter. The US Consumer Product Safety Commission publishes general safety information on household fuel and lamp products.

Torch, paraffin and clean-burning lamp oils

The One Fuel is sold as a fuel for all vessels: tiki torch, oil lamp, lanterns and so on, indoors and outdoors. Use it only in vessels that do not require a flammable fuel based on ethanol.

Torch fuel can be used in tiki lanterns and torches that use wicks. The oil-based fuel produces a bright flame, and it will emit less smoke than the big-box tiki if you place the wick slightly above the holder. Two optional additives are available: eucalyptus and citronella essential oils. It has been proven that these natural products increase insect protection when combined with the base tiki fuel.

Paraffin lamp oil can be used indoors or outdoors in liquid candles, lanterns and torches. Virtually every restaurant in North America, Canada and Europe uses paraffin-based fuels. It is virtually smoke-free and emits a pleasant smell. You can choose a citronella essential oil or eucalyptus additive, which provides a pleasant scent and some flying insect protection. Who wants to eat flies in their soup?

Clean lamp oil is an alternative to paraffin oil. It is smokeless, odourless and lasts significantly longer, and it is even cheaper than paraffin lamp oil.

Dual fuel: what it means for a lantern or stove

Dual fuel means that the product can be powered either by unleaded petrol bought at the service station, or by shellite. Shellite is a cleaner-burning fuel that extends the life span of the generator. Colemans' own shellite fuel also contains a rust inhibitor and has a long shelf life. The generator is the small part that vaporises the liquid fuel before it reaches the mantle or burner, so keeping it clean matters.

Are they safe to use?

Absolutely. Dual fuel lanterns are safe to use, just like any other product that uses flammable liquids. That means respecting the fuel, filling carefully and keeping the appliance on a stable surface.

Does it smell?

No. You will only notice a smell when you fill up the fuel tank. Dual fuel lanterns emit no smelly fumes when in use.

How much do they cost to run?

If you assume petrol costs $1.50 a litre, the cost of running the stove is about $1.20 an hour and the cost of running the lantern is less than 12 cents an hour. Your own figures will shift with local fuel prices, but the lantern is clearly the cheaper of the two to run.

How bright and how hot?

Most lanterns emit a warm, adjustable light with 861 or 1138 lumens. They are versatile and give a natural feel to your camp. Lumens simply measure total visible light output, so a higher number means a brighter lantern. If lighting is your priority, our rundown of the best camp lighting compares other options. On the cooking side, most burners can produce a heat output of up to 17000 BTU. A BTU is a unit of heat energy, so a higher rating boils water faster, though wind and pot size matter as well.

What could go wrong?

Clean fuel is recommended to avoid problems. Impurities can cause generators to become blocked after prolonged use. As with any lantern, it is important to have spare mantles. Most outlets stock the spares you will need, including mantles and replacement generators. A mantle is the fragile mesh that glows when heated, and it is the part most likely to break in transit, so pack spares in something rigid.

Advantages of dual fuel appliances and choosing a fuel

Dual fuel appliances have many advantages, including being inexpensive to operate, having fuel levels that are easy to monitor, and removing the need to carry large pressurised LPG bottles. They are reliable and work well in cold weather. It is not unusual to hear of dual fuel appliances providing reliable service over a period of 15 years. If you are comparing cookers, see our look at the best camping stove options or the Ozark Trail 2 burner camp stove review.

Fuel quality is another matter, and the market is patchy. Usage advice is often inconsistent, prices are high, and there is a jumble of suppliers who seem to have little idea what they are doing. Many claim purity levels which are not possible in real life. Inactive ingredients are added by several companies, which only serves to contaminate the oil's purity, and colorants can corrupt and dilute the purity of a "PURE" fuel.

My view is that the list of fuels worth buying is short, and you'd be surprised at what is sold as fuel for tiki torches, candles, oil lamps and lanterns. Many distillers make claims about purity and consistency, yet only a handful deliver on their promises. Check that a supplier maintains steady quality and can keep supply going before you commit to a brand. A cheap, unlabelled bottle is rarely a bargain.